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  Chicagoland MG Club:Tech Tips

MGB Windshield Installation
More Tips From Experience

This article comes from Michael George in Granite Bay, CA.

1. Iím not an expert, but I did use your tech tips (excellent btw) and did mine and thought I would share since it took a little less time and guys. It took two guys to replace glass and install 76 MGB Windshield (windscreen) in a 3+ hours. Below are some notes that you may find useful:
1.1. Assembly was on a larger portable plastic picnic table with foam floor mats for cushioning and a large towel to keep from marring the aluminum frame and posts.
1.2. Applied sealant and/or anti-seizing/anti- corrosion compound as and when desired.
1.3. Used soapy water or window cleaner solution for lubricant. Started using soapy water, but was washing soap off my hands for hours. It seemed the Windex was the best Ö just used it a lot and the spray bottle made application easy.
1.4. Cleaned all parts prior assembly. Used taps to clean out all threads. Removed all rivets. Used new screws in all applications. Removed all corrosion and sealant on posts, rails, connecting pieces, etc. Buffed parts as desired.
1.4.1. Installed rubber visor blocks prior top rail assembly
1.4.2. I installed one visor mounting block and held off on the other side until the glass and frame was fully assembled. I noticed the visor mounting block made assembly a little harder.
1.4.2.1. Note: I did have to drill out the block holes and top rail so I could use my rivets. All done prior assembly of any frame parts. I used rivets from Ace hardware (3/16 dia. with 1/4 grip)
1.4.2.2. For the rivets close to the glass, I did use a washer under the rivet head to make sure it did not go all the way into the glass and seal side.
1.5. Assembled the side posts to the bottom rail. Tighten all screws. Used the right length screws.
1.6. Spread the posts apart enough to allow the window to be placed inside. This did bend the post brackets, but they bent back end without damage.
1.7. Lubricated the windshield seal and place on the glass. My seal had areas shaved for corners for the bracket clearance.
1.8. Lubricated the inside of the posts and the lower rail.
1.9. Placed the glass and seal in the lower frame and side post assembly. Spreaded the posts as needed to allow the glass to clear the frame. Use the marker on the glass to center on the lower rail mounting bracket.
1.10. Had the top rail and its end brackets pre- assembled.
1.11. Lubricated the top rail/bracket assembly and slide it on the top of the glass/seal. Left the screws loose enough for the bracket to move if needed, but not flopping around.
1.12. Pushed the posts in to meet the top rail.
1.12.1. Pushed one side on first fully and installed the top rail to post screw first.
1.12.2. Then pushed the other post in to meet the top rail and installed itís post screw. NOTE: This was the really the only time we had to push hard, but if you use a ratcheting strap hold down, it would be easier. Also, we used a rubber mallet to gently tap on the first post as needed, to side it on fully, but only a couple of times.
1.13. Installed the remaining top rail hold down screws, but did not tighten them.
1.13.1. We figured when we place it on the car for install, with all the tweaking and twisting it would be best to leave stuff loose on top and tighten later.
1.14. Installed the top to bottom rail retaining rod
1.14.1. NOTE: the top and bottom rail will pull away from the glass and seal if you move the assembly around too much. It did on us and the lower seal got caught under the glass Ö we had to take the window and seal all the way back out and start over again.
1.14.2. Tight the rod enough to make sure the seals are seated properly. Donít over tighten though.
1.15. Installed the lower seal on the lower rail
1.15.1. We followed this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTJ-A_-n0_o). Note, we made our own tool (similar to the one in the video) out of an old screwdriver. Used lots of lubricant. This took us about 20 min.
1.15.2. At one end of the table we let the window lay like in the video (curve up) used the foam mats to protect where the window over hung the edges. This reduced pressure on the glass and allowed the pressure on the bottom rail to be on the frame to table. The glass lays more flat on the frame basically.
1.15.3. Use lots of light and lubricant.
1.15.4. One guy made sure the lower portion stayed in place and checked the other guy pushing the top portion of the seal in place.
1.15.5. At the edges we ran the seal all the way to the post, but made sure the flap that seals against the body of the car was cut so it would be well under the post bottom.
1.16. Placed the windshield on the car and install the screws
1.16.1. We did not pre-position any ropes to pull the front seal out as others have done. We just used our finger and lubricant to keep pulling the seal out when needed. We did have to use our home made tool to get an edge started in a corner though, but then flipped it out just using our finger.
1.16.2. We pulled back the door seal at the front sill and removed the metal covers that hide the post ends. You will be amazed at how easier it is to see the post end and the screws and the plates when it comes time to assemble.
1.16.2.1. It took 1/8Ē drill to drill out the rivets.
1.16.2.2. Also, we never had to lay on our backs upside down.
1.16.3. We did have the brake light and the glove box removed as well.
1.16.4. We used a flat blade screw driver from the inside to bend a local area of the dashboard that was covering the bolt heads earlier. The bent area was not visible from the outside, so no harm.
1.16.5. We used the original mounting screws and not recommended tapered screws.
1.16.6. We put the upper mounting screws for the posts in place first. This really only took one guy to do and only 10 min each side.
1.16.6.1. I used a large clamp to pull the top post down into place like many note in their instructions. After the upper screws were in place I didnít use the clamps any longer.
1.16.6.2. We did not run the screws all the way down to leave room for frame movement.
1.16.7. We again pulled the front seal up and into place with our fingers and lubricant. This allowed us to tilt the windscreen forward so we could put the lower post screws in place
1.16.8. We put the lower screws in place
1.16.8.1. Starting on the passenger side one guy pushed down on the post and pulled it forward gently. The screw went in easily. We did not run the screw all the way in to leave room for frame movement.
1.16.8.2. We repeated the same process on the driver side.
1.17. We installed the lower rail bracket screws
1.17.1. The bracket holds and the mounting plate were not fully lined up, so we had to shift our lower rail a little, which is why we left all our screws loose (post and top rail) as noted earlier
1.17.2. We again made sure the front seal was pulled out with our finger and lubricant.
1.17.3. One guy in the front shifted the windscreen over a little and pushed down enough for the other guy to get a screw started. Once one was started, the other would start with just one guy.
1.17.4. These we tightened down Ö slowly.
1.18. We let the window and seal set over night and went back and tightened the posts lower and upper bolts in place. We initially thought maybe push the post to line up with the door, but then thought the door may not necessarily be in the right place and our post pushing would cause stress on the glass.
1.19. We then tightened the upper rail screws
1.20. We installed the post to door wind wing seals
1.20.1. We lubricated the seals and slide them down their seal-rails. We had installed the seal-rails before assembling the window and frame assembly.
1.20.2. We closed the door tight and used the mark on the rubber from the arm rest end to mark where to cut the rubber seal.
1.20.3. We cut only the round portion of the rubber seal. We left the flat portion against the post still there as it will seal from rain.
1.20.4. We cut the bottom of the seal square with the post bottom.
1.20.5. We installed the inside retainer screws
1.20.5.1. We cut a small slit in the round portion of the seal at the top where the screw would need to go through to hold down the inside metal retaining strip.
1.20.5.2. We used needle nose tweezers to puncture a hole in the seal where the screw would need to go. We kept pushing and twisting until the tweezers went into the screw hole in the post.
1.20.5.3. We slide the inside metal retainer in place and held it in place by compressing the seal over it.
1.20.5.4. We installed the top screw and made sure the round rubber part of the seal opened up enough to let the head of the screw pass through.
1.20.5.5. We then used the tweezers to locate and make a hold for the lower screw. Remember the retainer is now installed so finding the hold was easy. Also, since we cut the lower rubber away earlier, the screw hole was slightly under the edge of the rubber so cutting it as the upper one for the screw to pass through was not necessary.
1.20.5.6. We installed the lower screw
1.20.5.7. Remember, you can pull the seal and seal rail away from the post to find the screw holes if needed.
1.20.5.8. We did this on both sides
1.20.6. We cut the top of the rubber flat to the door wind wings. There is a gap between it and the roof when pulled down, but it looks better to us when the top is down and we never drive in the rain.

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