On 6/7/2012, David Cobb wrote:
"My MGA has studs instead of bolts, and it’s a pain lifting the front shock up and over the bolts because of clearance. Are those studs removable, and can they be replaced with bolts"?

To remove the studs, remove nut and lockwasher. Replace the nut and add a second nut. Jam the two nuts together, then unscrew the stud.

The stud, which is fine thread on top and coarse thread on bottom, can be replaced with a coarse threaded hex head bolt, but the bolt must be exactly the right length, because the thread runs into another part underneath. When you get the stud out, check length of the thread on bottom end of the stud. That is all the penetration allowed for the bolt through the tapping plate. Add together thickness of the lockwasher (0.094), thickness of the flange on the shock absorber (0.406), thickness of the top steel plate on the frame (might be 3/16-inch), thickness of the stamped steel frame (might be 0.075"), and length of thread on bottom end of the stud (may be 1.5 to 2.0 times diameter or about 0.412). That total will be the required length for a replacement bolt.

Screw the bolt in by itself until it bottoms out, then measure space (height) left under the bolt head. That needs to be 1/2-inch in assembly, allowing for thickness of the shock absorber mounting flange and one medium spring lockwasher. If too long, then use a shorter bolt or grind the tip end off as required. Having done this myself, the bolt needs to be 3/8-16-UNC (coarse thread) and 1-1/4" long (8 pieces). Use Grade 5 (or grade 8) bolts, and don't forget the lockwasher.