TS-102 gives pictures of engines mounted on two different engine stands, just for the reference of how they might bolt up. Note that the first stand has only three arms attached, as there was no way to fit the fourth arm, it just wouldn't fit in anywhere. Such is the design of this particular stand. But fear not, for three arms are more than adequate for this size engine. And these light engine stands only cost about $39-USD retail if you check around a bit, so they are a very handy tool for the price.

Also note the means of extension of the ends of the arms where they attach to the engine. Here I use long threaded 3/8" studs with flat washers and hex nuts. And in between the arms and the engine block I add one or two hex nuts of a size larger that will slip over the studs simply as spacers. With long enough studs and enough spacers I can move the engine out far enough to have easy access to the rear of the crankshaft, and also enough space to allow for fitting of the engine rear plate, flywheel and clutch assembly.

As a matter interest, the long studs I use are the long cylinder head studs, which are fine threaded on one end and coarse threaded on the other end. The fine threaded end screws into the engine block, so I use coarse threaded nuts on the exposed ends. The spacer nuts are 7/16" fine threaded, which just slip over the 3/8" studs. Also, the engine is mounted a little lower on the first stand, such that the center of gravity of the engine is closer to the rotational axis of the stand, so it's easier to rotate the fixture without it wanting to suddenly flop over, meaning not so much muscle power is required to keep it under control during rotation.

One really nice accessory you might consider buying is a drip pan that sits on the bottom frame of the stand. See photo at top pf page. This catches the oil that ALWAYS drips from the engine when you are working on it, which is nice in keeping the floor dry so you're not walking and slipping in the oil puddles and tracking oil all around the shop.




This last model with the open loop arms will usually allow attachment at four points. Any of these arrangements preclude installation of the flywheel and clutch parts. If you install the engine rear plate (or do not remove it), and use long enough bolts and some spacers, you may create enough space between rear plate and mounting arms to allow mounting with the flywheel and clutch in place.

See side mounting engine stands on the next page.