BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH
Art Isaacs

A battery cut-off switch is an inexpensive theft deterrent. It is also a good idea if you have one of those hard to find battery draining issues. I installed the switch on a ’79 at the back of the battery shelf, but slightly towards the passenger side to avoid the sight rise at the center of the panel directly above the differential. Similarly on a ’73, converted to a single 12V battery, the switch is on the same shelf, behind the driver's side (just back of the empty battery box) almost against the vertical panel at rear to avoid the battery box cover. Plenty of room for wires and required drilling the one hole for the neck for the switch to come through from below in both cases. I connected to the ground wire side of the battery and used the original ground connection to the chassis, but found numerous other bolts that could have provided an adequate ground. I have also seen them mounted on the vertical directly behind the seats. I am not sure of which switches those were and how much clearance for connections was required.

Reprinted from American MGB Association Tech Sections Volume III

VALVE CLEARANCE – ADJUSTMENT FOR A MGB
British Auto Repair Course, Burgard High School Night School 2003- 2004. Jim Pelletterie, Instructor

This is an alternative method to the instructions in the manual (Haynes #60 Page 50). I am told it is a method used to adjust valve clearance in racing vehicles. It takes less time and uses common tools.

PREPARATION
Have a new valve cover gasket ready. It was also suggested to me to have two new “bush” purchased. The “bush” fits below the valve cover nut and washer that is used to hold the valve cover in place. Remove all spark plugs. Remove the valve cover nut, washer and bush. Clear the way for the valve cover itself to be removed. Check the old gasket. If it is old and brittle replace with a new gasket. Have grease or contact gasket adhesive available for replacing the gasket and the valve cover.

POSITION ENGINE TO BEGIN ON #1 CYLINDER.
Very important three point check.

1.	Turn engine by griping the belt on the lower pulley and pulling upward (rotating the belt clockwise as you face the front of the engine). The timing marks should show in their proper place (TDC - Top Dead Center).
2.	Place a small rod through the spark plug hole and feel the cylinder head rise to the upper most position in #1 cylinder (the cylinder closest to the front of the car).
3.	Remove the distributor cap and see that the rotor is pointing toward the #1 cylinder spark plug wire. If all three checks are not done it is possible to be 180 degrees off – NOT GOOD! PROCEED TO ADJUST NUMBER 1 CYLINDER VALVE ADJUSTMENT With a flat feeler gauge (. 015in.) check clearance on the #1 valves. Loosen the nut with a wrench and adjust the valve clearance with a flat blade screwdriver. When the gauge takes a gentle tug to move it back and forth tighten the lock nut while holding the screwdriver steady. Recheck with the feeler gauge to be sure the adjustment did not change in the tightening of the nut.

PROCEED TO CYLINDER 3, THEN 4 AND FINALLY TO CYLINDER 2
(MUST BE DONE IN THIS FIRING ORDER)
Each time rotate the engine by pulling upward (clockwise) on the belt that goes around the lower pulley (must be rotated the proper way) until the cylinder head is felt to be in the upper most position by use of the rod that you will put through the spark plug hole. Repeat what was done in cylinder 1 in each cylinder following the above firing order.

REPLACE VALVE COVER AND SPARK PLUGS
Make sure the gasket for the valve cover is in place on the valve cover and apply a thin layer of grease where the valve cover gasket will meet the engine head (if necessary use contact adhesive). Check following replacement to be sure oil is not leaking from the valve cover when engine is started.

That is it, your done – hear the difference!
These instructions prepared by Dr. Donald Weaver

Reprinted from American MGB Association Tech Sections Volume III