Your lower rear body panel, between the boot lid and the bumper, has probably been dented in the past. Even now you may be sporting the marks that result when a careless parallel parker gently nudges your overriders forward into the body of the car. Let's face it, the guys in pickups aren't fastening MG bumpers to the backs of their rigs for better protection! The chrome bumpers we so lovingly polish are perhaps longer on style than strength. Well, I don't have a cure, but here's some help!

By obtaining an extra pair of spring brackets-the mounting brackets that fasten the bumper to the car-and doubling them up two layers thick, you accomplish two things: One, you significantly increase the rigidity of your rear bumper; two, the extra thickness moves your bumper about 1/4" farther from the rear of the car, affording just a bit more room before the overriders touch the paint. This worked beautifully on my 1969 MGB, I didn't even have to enlarge or elongate any of the mounting holes. It was a simple bolt-on modification, easily reversed, and invisible to all but the most practiced and knowledgeable eye. Unfortunately, the job might not be as easy on the split rear bumper fitted to the 1970 model cars, or likewise the late 1974 model with its one piece bracket, but if you're handy with tools, it will be worth investigating.

For a clearer idea of what's involved, look at page 46 of your Moss catalog, and reference item 28, 39, 46 or 53 as appropriate. Just imagine another identical bracket sandwiched together to the one you're looking at...as a matter of fact, taping them together makes assembly easier. Just bolt everything back together the way it came apart, treating the doubled bracket as if it were the single one you took out. The whole job takes only a few minutes, and the cost is well worth it!

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